Jozef Verbruggen made the a study trip along Matusadona National Park & Lake Kariba and Mana Pools National Park in Zimbabwe, took place in Malawi Majete and Liwonde National Park to close with a stay at Lake Malawi. A compelling account of his experiences.
Zimbabwe and Malawi, two destinations I visited a long time ago. I’m curious about the changes. Water plays a very important role in this journey, in the central part of the continent it may be a strange thought twist but water is everywhere. Lake Kariba, zambezi, a rugged river with crocodiles, thousands of hippos and “Loxodonte Africa”, the Shire River, lifeblood of Majete and Liwonde national park and the beautiful lake of Malawi, the third largest pond of Africa. An ocean feeling cannot be suppressed.
On arrival at Harare airport, I am surprised to find extremely friendly customs officers, who are apparently happy with the visit to their country. Harare, what a beautiful city! It’s a short drive to the colonial Meikles hotel. I don’t normally like large-scale accommodations but Meikles exudes confidence, freshness and top service. The new rooms look great.
The next day an hour with a Ccesna 206 to Lake Kariba and Matusadona national park. The adventure can begin.
Lake Kariba, water, water and more water. The largest reservoir in the world with beautiful islands, beautiful sunsets and inspiring people. Many activities are possible, from a visit to an authentic “Tonga village” to tigerfishing and rhino trekking in the park (of course on foot) and game drives in open 4X4 vehicles. The parks have suffered from the turbulent unstable past years but everywhere you hear elephants, hippos, large herds of impala and lions roaring. Kariba and Matusadona are two destinations on the shores of the lake, here you can stay at least six nights. There are many possibilities; from old colonial Bumi Hills to funky bush Changa lodge and bushcamps like Rhino Camp or Musango Safari Camp with icon of the area: Steve.
With an afternoon flight of 45 minutes I travel to beautiful Mana Polish. First visited Kanga, a beautiful bushcamp in the middle of the park, away from the river in its own concession with lots of animals, leopards, lions, wild dogs. This is still very authentic bush which guarantees a wonderful wildlife experience.
The next destination is the beautiful Ruckomechi on the banks of the Zambezi, a real hit. Both lodges are highly complementary, Kanga a bushcamp and Ruckomechi (Wilderness Safaris) a classic plus (like Duma Tau). The view is phenomenal. Both lodges have very thorough guides, good knowledge of the environment and facilitate many activities ranging from walking with an armed guide to game drives in open 4X4 vehicles and nightly game drives. And an environment with lots of wildlife. For the adventurous soul it is possible to sleep under the stars 20 minutes away, in the middle of nowhere of Ruckomechi.
My visit to Malawi starts with a speedboat on the Zambezi, a beautiful river with a dangerous twist. Via Chirundu, Lusaka and then a short flight I go to Lilongwe. Malawi is not for the beginner. It is a beautiful country in the middle of the rift valley with beautiful mountains and beautiful views. The south is embraced by Mozambique, the people here have the same habits and speak the same language.
Majete national park is one of the top wildlife parks of Southern Africa since its management falls under “African parks”. I stay inMkulumadzi Lodge on the banks of the Shire River, the connecting road from Lake Malawi to the Zambezi. The Shire is a fast-flowing raging mountain river here. Majete is top, not because of the abundance of animals but because of its wide variety. Antelopes such as moose and sabre are common. It’s “Big five.” I didn’t have time for a rhino draw, too bad. Birding is very good. On my arrival palmnut vulture!
Through a very good road to Liwonde national park. Liwonde is for me personally one of the most beautiful parks in Africa. The Shire is a large slow stream of water lined by beautiful borassus palms, thousands of white breasted commorants hatching in the palm trees. Their nests are plundered by yellow baboons.
Yet they continue to raise their offspring undisturbed. Again a very nice experience. I was lucky enough to see pells fishing owl, two specimens not far from the rusticMvuu Lodge wilderness safaris.
Liwonde is a must for every experienced safarigoer. Birding is truly phenomenal with many species of waterfowl: African skimmers, open billed storks, pratincoles, palm nut vultures etc. and species found in the mopane forests. Beautiful big trees where I went looking for roan and saber antelope as well as black rhinoceros.
I end this trip on lake Malawi, before I know it with a gin & tonic in hand aboard an authentic dhow. My stay inPumulani is “grand chic”, and what a view! Several islands set the atmosphere in an immeasurable freshwater sea.
Closing is always difficult, but once again it is the people, the locals who have made this trip a delight. Malawi is very authentic, villages (which one can visit) still radiate the atmosphere of a bygone era. This is still unimpeded and safe Africa. Zimbabwe is an unknown to many because of the unstable years. These are over. The land is waiting to be discovered.
Africa hallelujah!
