There are cities that are on your list to visit but that are often overtaken by the mundane or other attractive destinations. Tallinn is one of them. So when the opportunity arose to visit the Estonian capital, I grabbed it with both hands. An old Hanseatic city with a Soviet past in addition, there had to be something to do there! And the folks at Michelin shout about the exploding culinary scene. Hence, early one Thursday morning, I take the train to Schiphol Airport to experience it in person.
The first act
The flight is short and comfortable. The airport in Tallinn, the capital of the northernmost Baltic state, is almost cozy for a capital city airport. Because she is not too big, the suitcases are on the belt before I get to the baggage carousel.
Within fifteen minutes we are in the city center. Along the way, I see a mixture of modern skyscrapers and ancient complexes. Because Estonia has long belonged to the Soviet Union, that influence is evident in the city. Tallinn is compact and full of contrasts.
The old town consists of the Cathedral Mount and the lower town, where both buildings and fortifications are excellently preserved. Its history is a string of stories and legends, and the entire ancient city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The oldest pharmacy in Europe is also located here. A city tour with a good guide is well worthwhile.
At the fortifications, we are pointed to a tower with the unusual nickname: Kiek in de kök. Indeed, “Look in the Kitchen. From this watchtower, the guards could see right into the houses. So if you lived as a watchman in one of those houses, you could see, so to speak, what you were having for dinner in the evening.
On Domberg the nobility and the rich lived, in the lower town the merchants and workers. That this did not always go well together is evidenced by the wall built between them, where the gate was locked at night.
Surrounding the city are the more modern neighborhoods. At least, old neighborhoods and complexes being converted to chic and/or hip. One example is Rotermann City. This area has played an important role in Tallinn’s history; in the 19th century it was the junction of roads from Tartu, Narva and Pärnu. There are also other large industrial businesses in the area that have now been transformed into upscale shopping and hospitality areas. On its outskirts is the Metropole Spa Hotel with an excellent wellness.
We eat at Restoran 38 that evening. Once a pop-up during the pandemic; now it even has a recommendation in the Michelin Guide. It shows: delicious dishes and excellent matching wines.
Across the street from my hotel, I grab another nightcap at Chicago 1933, a live music bar where a bunch of fifty-somethings go completely wild to some of the firmer music of the 1970s and 1980s. It’s approaching midsummer, so it barely gets dark. Then those blackout curtains are nice. It is early June and at 4 a.m. it is already full light!
The second act
Day two we go out to sea, the Gulf of Finland. Off the coast there are about 2,200 islands, some of which are inhabited. Prangli is the largest and also a good (day) destination for Estonians. Only about 70 people live there permanently, but with visitors and vacationers, this number fairly rises. Authentic houses, tranquility and nature are its hallmarks. It has a small supermarket and a church and is wonderfully quiet. The most exciting thing is the seesaw in front of the little store.
That night I sleep in a container. The Hektor Container Hotel consists of a number of containers furnished as compact hotel rooms. All within an old factory building. It is the only hotel in Telliskivi Creative City. The City is a former factory complex and now houses galleries, independent stores, designers, startups, museums, theaters and restaurants. The renowned Fotografiska Yallinn Photography Museum is also located here. More than 800 events take place annually in this district.
Lovers of gin can visit the Juniperium Distillery for tours and tastings or simply sip some delicious cocktails at the bar. The “creative city” is also known for its street art. There are organized tours that are very worthwhile
The third and final act
On day three, the Open Air Museum of Estonia is on the program. It offers a nice overview of the country’s history, from its earliest beginnings through the Soviet period to the present. Nice to spend a morning there.
Then follows an excellent lunch at Bistro Lore in Noblessner Marina, a renovated harbor area with nice cafes and restaurant. The panna cotta with passion fruit and the rhubarb lemonade alone are well worth a visit.
For us Dutch, cycling is second nature. Apparently the Estonian Tourist Board knows that too, so after lunch we get on the pedals. The first part of the route leads along the coast. Much is still being developed here. For example, an old prison is being converted into a complex with expensive apartments. Linnahal, a convention center built for the 1980 Olympics, looks abandoned in its bombastic Eastern Bloc style. It was at the same time a fortification but now people don’t really know what to do with it. At the ferry port, where not only cruise ships but also the ferries from Helsinki dock, we find a good number of liquor wholesalers. Alcohol is a lot cheaper here than in Finland, making alcohol tourism a great revenue model. On trolleys, the supplies are taken back to Finland.
Before heading to our hotel, we dove into the Kadriorg district, a romantic inner-city neighborhood near the coast. Presidential yet cozy. The Kadriorg Palace and Art Museum, surrounded by the manicured Kadriorg Park, was once constructed by Tsar Peter the Great as an expression of love for the city. The 18th-century park with fountains and streams is surrounded by equally historic wooden houses, with flowering tree branches leaning over the detailed door frames of these magnificent masterpieces. Detail: our Peter has never been there himself! Here you will also find elegant restaurants, cafes with local charm and a sophisticated art scene. Everything here is a lot more classic than in the previously mentioned neighborhoods.
Hotel L’Ebitdu, where I spend my last night on Estonian soil, is on the edge of the old town and has an excellent wine and tapas bar in the basement. The Roof restaurant is located on the top floor and has great views. Breakfast is also served here: breakfast with a view.
Finally, we dine at Tuljak restaurant, which serves Estonian cuisine with a modern twist. The restaurant has had a Bib Gourmand since this year, is beautifully located and has sea and sunset views. This restaurant is a topper, also in terms of staff, and a wonderful end to a great trip.
In terms of luxury hotels, you pretty much end up with the big chains like Hilton, Radisson and Swissotel. Those who look further will find in the old town Hotel Telegraph, Autograph Collection (88 rooms) and boutique hotels such as Schössle Hotel (23 rooms, classically furnished), the Centennial Hotel Tallinn (Nordic, 81 rooms) and the Nunne Boutique Hotel opening in July with 74 rooms.
Resume
Tallinn is truly an Untamed city/dusty city. On the gastronomic front, I was pleasantly surprised. However, it is the combination of classic and chic with industrial heritage, emerging entertainment areas and raw edges that gives the city its appeal.
