Beaches in Mozambique? Yes, they have a coastline, but at African beaches you think of Gambia, Zanzibar, Kenya or seychelles. Or the coasts of Morocco, Tunisia and Egypt of course. Mozambique will have few people in mind.
I don’t mind, the more beach there is for me. Although they do have a lot, a lot of beach here. I’m here to explore the coast of Mozambique and hope to be snorkeling for a meeting with a whale shark, giant manta and manatee.
Adventurous, they call it. Towing a 4×4 car through Africa. Driving left, avoiding people and animals crossing and avoiding holes in the road. Cutting through villages, forests and vast plains. And sometimes you’re looking for an accident to your destination. It is the most intensive way to discover and experience Mozambique.
The coast of Mozambique you have to feel, it is sometimes said. The route through the dunes is not easy for the not insignificant 4WD. For more grip, I’ll let some air run out of my tires. The mulled sand is not easy to ride due to the many bends and some dunes are unusually steep.
It is clear, no attention to the surroundings, until the stretched beach pops up and I slam on the brakes. I’m overwhelmed by the overwhelming colors of the Mozambiquan coast. The sand is bright yellow, the sky bright blue, just like the water. The climbing plants on the dunes are extremely green. It is almost a shame to draw a trace through this, even though tomorrow it will be gone by the wind.
The beauty is not only found on land. I’m hoping to meet a whale shark, giant manta or manatee so I’m going into the water. The coast of Mozambique is rich in sea creatures outside this trio. You have to discover the underwater world, diving or snorkeling.
A top location for divers and snorkelers is the famous Two Mile Reef near Bazaruto. This place is called The Aquarium by connoisseurs. And with good reason. The colors of the fish and the coral almost hurt my eyes. A soup turtle gasps for air and sinks back to its resting place. For a moment he looks at me, but luckily my flippers and glasses don’t stand out with the colorful fish.
I decide to move further north. Driving in this void is delicious; All I have to do is watch the surf. And it’s a lot easier than driving inland. At least until a poison-green snake crosses my path. I’m about to drive over him, but luckily I can’t touch him. When I get out to take polish height, the animal appears to be in the tires of my car. I’m watching him closely. My knowledge about snakes is limited, but I do know that Africa is home to some ‘boys’ I would rather not meet. At least this snake doesn’t pull over, it relies on its venom. That’s not a good sign. Suddenly the animal moves in my direction. I’m glad I’m not too close. I take some pictures and get in quickly to continue my journey.
At Villanculos, a group of fishermen slowly pulls their nets out of the water. They are helped by someone who loosens the nets from the stones time and time again. A scene that repeats itself here every morning in the early hours.
In two groups, they pull the net ashore. For more than half an hour they stand pulling at the nets, including some women with a baby on their backs. The catch of fish that I don’t know seems skinny to this family of eight. But they seem satisfied and like to show the fish. Part is for themselves, the rest for the local market and restaurants.
Other fishermen have been deeper at sea with their traditional dhow. One of the shipboys explains to me why not everyone owns a dhow. “Usually one good boat builder lives in the village. It’s been working on one boat for months.”
I could stay here for a few more days, but I’m not lucky enough to be on my side; It’s blowing too hard. I can’t go out to sea for the next two days. So I continue the journey north. With more opportunities and unknown snorkeling spots I want to discover.
Mother Nature is erratic, I’ve known that over the years. It’s amazing. I didn’t come across the three animals I came for, but the rest of the wildlife is so surprisingly beautiful that it doesn’t even matter to me.
Text & photography: Corno van den Berg | www.droomplekken.nl
