Kwazulu Natal in three days

Once landed in Johannesburg, Trees pressed me to pin first and visit the hotel immediately. And no, no help to take help from the many nice people who want to help. That’s where it’s already going wrong. I didn’t prepare my debit card. Credit card, then. And I can let that nice gentleman tell me where the hotel is. And have me escorted. Even though the corridors he leads me through are becoming more and more deserted, and I am starting to feel increasingly uncomfortable with my properly recorded cash. Anyway, i’m fine. After a short night I fly on to Durban where I get a lift to Mtubatuba, an African village somewhere halfway where I am experiencing my first culture shock. How weird to be the only white man!

Tuesday – Game Reserve Hluhluwe iMfolozi

After a few colaks, the driver of the Rhino Ridge Safari Lodge arrives in the village to take me to HluhHluwe iMfolozi. Soon it turns out to be the owner in person   who takes me to the brand new star lodge. Immediately after entering the park I am treated to a giraffe, buffalo and elephants. What patience does this man have as I hang out of the car’s window with one lens after another. Fortunately, he seems to be enjoying my enthusiasm. Despite the delay, I can go with the afternoon game drive on arrival.

Even more big game, just a few meters away. After a breathtaking sundowner – with what turned out to be three rhinos just behind the 4×4 – another blood moon. Hugely impressive all. All those primal animals. And what an overwhelming nature. You’re so small here as a city man. And what little do you know about the “real” world. Deeply impressed I finally arrive at my villa. Holy moly. Do I really have to go back to the main area to eat? Really? Not a fireplace on and in chilling in the bath? No, no, no, no. Dinner it is. It’s going to be a mouth-watering party in bryt’s company again. During the second course we are surprised with a spontaneous performance by the Zulu staff. Singing and dance. What wonderful names the women have. Hope, Promise. A delicious meal and many glasses of wine later we slide through to the fire outside where the moon puts the park in a fairy-tale light.

Wednesday – iSimangaliso Wetland Park

The next morning an even more impressive game drive. Rhinos, rhinos and… Ha, no! Thanks to the radio system we hear that a group of lions with cubs have been spotted further down the park. After a rather wild ride we see them up close. We also see vultures and an elephant that unabashedly makes short work of a tree. Guide Lindi not only has everything but is also full of facts: “Elephants have no less than 150,000 muscles in their trunk alone; it takes years for them to fully control it.”

After a rushed breakfast it’s time for the road transfer to my next destination, Makakatana Bay Lodge in St. Lucia iSimangaliso. I am met with homemade lemonade and a delicious salad at a fresh flower-decorated white set table. Bliss serves me and a disarming conversation ensues. From a mutual “Where are you from, are you married, do you have children etc.” it appears that she would have loved to marry the father of her children but that the eleven cows that her fiancé had to raise as a dowry were really not feasible.

Shortly after dropping my bag, Annelies, a Belgian ranger, takes me for a private game drive through the normally wild wetlands. Total drought. The rain has failed this season and the water sources have dried up. The animals are thirsty and hide in the bushes. The strong wind makes the tall grass rustle which is disorienting. Only in the distance we see many animals and especially birds. But also a group of giraffes. Annelies proposes a sundowner and turns the jeep down the road, to a nice spot 25 meters away from the group where we experience a breathtaking sunset. They’re so curious! It’s only when three rhinos get too close that we go back. Meanwhile, it has already gone dark, an ideal setting for a four course dinner at the boma with Hugh, the owner of the lodge. The land has been in his family for four generations and that is why they are the only private lodge in the park. Well the lusts and not the burdens because the park is maintained by the government. When I walk to my cottage, the history is almost tangible.

It feels like it’s still in the middle of the night when my alarm goes off for the morning game drive, and again I’m the only one. Dazzling morning light on the swaying grass. I’ve never seen anything like it. What is special is that I am taken to the place where the boat safari departs from, a magical place that only Makakatana has access to, where the hippos sleep in the water during the day with all the grunts and plucks of it. Layton uneatens a crocodile in the distance. That’s another morningcoffee…

Back in my charming cottage I have a moment to myself. Silence. Wild boars running by my porch, on my way to the mud puddle I’m looking forward to. What a pity I have to move on. There’s so much more to do here. I would have loved to have done another boat safari and visited the beach.

Thursday – Dolphin Coast, Ballito

The many trips, the short nights and the many new impressions have not sat me in the cold clothes so when I arrive at the hotel in Ballito the first thing I do is take a long bath and dive into my bed for a few hours. I have to get used to the sounds. Loud barking of dogs nearby and the deafening sound of the waves of the ocean. Once I wake up, I’ve got another 15 minutes left before Joseph arrives. Even though I am pressed not to go down the street alone, I dare to do so. I decide to walk to the beach.

The shortest way is through a secret gate at the rear of the hotel. I get the key and over a dense path I walk to the road that leads to the sea. It’s getting dark fast now. That ocean! Huge wild dark blue waves making a thunderous noise. So here I’m not going to swim, link me. Well, there’s a little bathing, of course. The water has a pleasant temperature. Bit mis-timed alone. I’m going to get a tidal wave all over me that scares you, and I’m all over the place. I notice that I don’t really know how I walked anymore. I’m in my sticky wet clothes through the dark streets and when I think I’m going into the right bushes to find the secret path I hear dogs at close distance ranting very hard. They’re not going to think I’m a burglar, are they? With the branches still in my hair, I stumble my way back down. So this was not the right path… On good luck I then go looking for the main entrance at the front. After a panicky half hour wandering in the headlights of the passing cars I find them. The boy at the hotel does his best not to laugh when he opens the gate for me. What a world traveller I am… Pffft. Change soon. Joseph laughs when he hears my story. Dinner at Coco de Mer makes up for it. Divine langoustines accompanied by heavenly wine.

Friday – Durban

Today no alarm clock, which makes me miss the dolphins that have to swim in the morning in all the early hours off the coast. Sin! Breakfast is drowned out by two screeching vervet monkeys of which I now understand why they are also called blue monkeys. We leave for Durban for the actual purpose of the trip: INDABA, Africa’s largest travel trade fair. It’s time for meetings with suppliers, making competitive price agreements and finding new ‘Untamed’ products.

South Africa, I love it! Three days in three completely different nature reserves at such a small distance from each other. It was just a tiny piece of an overwhelming and versatile country. I want to see more of it. Much more. With guidance please.